Jan 2025【日本東北】溫泉三昧之旅④ 在大雪飄落的雪國,追尋秘湯之宿與極上美食(福島~探訪豬苗代湖、磐梯山、會津若松城&千年古湯 蘆之牧溫泉)

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今早6點半起床,準備7點去使用昨天事先預約好的貸切露天風呂,這是「御宿萬葉亭」的名物,每一組住宿客人可以免費使用40分鐘。庭園裡的半露天的風呂,有兩個浴缸,一次只能容納最多三個人同時使用,左邊圓形的浴缸水溫很高、右邊橢圓形的浴缸水溫較低。雖然旅館裡面也有露天浴池,但是早晨享受一下這個庭園裡的露天風呂,也是一種特別的享受。 細密的雪花輕輕飄落,落在庭園的樹木和灌木叢上,覆蓋上一層柔軟的白色。原本翠綠的植物,此刻都披上了銀裝,枝條低垂,彷彿在向雪國的冬天致敬。 遠處的樹林,也都被白雪覆蓋,形成一片靜謐的雪白世界。偶爾,一陣微風吹過,樹枝輕輕搖晃,雪花便如柳絮般飄落,在空中舞動。我泡在熱氣氤氳的溫泉浴池中,早晨的寒意逐漸消散,而欣賞著這如詩如畫的雪景,身心都得到了徹底的放鬆。 聽聞中之澤溫泉的溫泉源自百年前的一場驚天動地的災難,根據我在旅館裡看到的白板資料,那場災難就發生在西元1888年,也就是明治21年的7月15日。某天的夏日清晨,本應是寧靜祥和的,卻被一連串不祥的預兆打破。從幾天前開始,大地就隱隱作祟,到了7點左右,地鳴聲愈發劇烈。早上7點45分,一陣劇烈的搖晃襲來,還沒等眾人回過神,便聽到一聲震耳欲聾的轟鳴,只見磐梯山的方向升起了一根巨大的柱狀物! 這根由岩石、土壤和水蒸氣組成的巨柱,扶搖直上,直衝雲霄,那景象,簡直就像是電影裡的末日場景!據說當時的景象如同「日食」發生一般,天地瞬間陷入一片黑暗。緊接著,夾雜著火山灰和被岩漿加熱的水蒸氣的「熱雨」傾盆而下,這場「熱雨」引發了大規模的土石流,不僅摧毀了沿途的村莊,更將河流截斷,形成了三個新的堰塞湖。而這三個湖泊,就是如今大名鼎鼎的檜原湖、小野川湖和秋元湖。 白板上那張手繪的「會津磐梯山爆發」示意圖,生動地還原了當年的場景。磐梯山被炸掉了一大塊,山腳下的村莊被夷為平地,原本流淌的河流被截斷,形成了三個巨大的湖泊。這幅景象,讓人不禁感嘆大自然的威力,也對當年受災的民眾感到深深的同情。 然而,這場災難卻也孕育出了新的生命——溫泉。白板上寫著:「中之澤溫泉,從江戶時代開始就是湯治場」。據說,這裡的源泉來自安達太良山的火山口,直線距離約7公里。沼之平地區在過去還是人們採集硫磺的地方,這裡出產的硫磺純度高達99%,品質極佳。 這裡的溫泉,屬於酸性泉,自古以來就以其強大的療效而聞名。泉水源自地下水與天水、加上活躍的火山活動交互影響的...

Jan 2025【台中北屯】大坑步道|頭嵙山健行|大坑5-1號步道上,大坑5號步道下(小百岳No.41)

往年過年回台中,都會找一天去大坑爬頭嵙山,今年也不例外。過去每次都是由大坑4號步道登頂,4號步道距離比較短,來回約3.5公里,所以從登山口開始就是一路陡上,走來會比較辛苦。

而從大坑5-1號步道也可以登頂頭嵙山,這條步道可以O型路線鄒一圈,距離約4.8公里,環狀路線不用遠路來回看一樣的風景,走起來也比較有意思,這條路線相較於4號步道,必較沒那麼陡,且途中有很多涼亭可以休息,走來不會太辛苦。今天散步步調走完O型一圈,全程大約兩個小時可以走完。

頭嵙山,位於台中市北屯區與新社區交界處,屬於大坑風景區之內,可由大坑一號、二號、三號、四號、五號、五之一號步道攀登,海拔859公尺,小百岳編號41,聯勤內補一等三角點3號及二等三角點1120號基石各一顆。

大坑5-1步道的起點,在台中市新社區的斜頭巷,從中興嶺往協中街(香菇街)方向轉入,再沿著斜頭巷往前開一小段路後就能到登山口了。谷歌地圖導航「大坑五之一號登山步道」即可找到於斜頭巷的登山口。登山口旁邊的空地,大約可停放10部小客車,我今天中午抵達,剛好還有一個空位可停車。

圓木棧道、原始山徑是大坑步道的特色,5-1步道當然也不例外,全程都是圓木棧道、原始山徑,以及土徑交錯。比起水泥階梯步道,這樣的原始步道走來更有樂趣!

從5-1號步道上山後,會經過二嵙山(無基石,有一座登山活動紀念碑),然後經過二嵙亭、城中亭、茶歇亭,最後到達黑松亭,接著轉大坑5號步道抵達頭嵙山,山頂也是大坑4號步道的交會處。

在頭嵙山山頂小休息後,原路返回到黑松亭後,續走大坑5號步道,沿途會經過大坑1、2、3號步道的交會處(如果是搭乘大眾運輸工具,也可以選擇走這些步道下山),不過我要回去登山口取車,所以由5號步道登山口下山,再走一小段水泥路後,即可回到5-1號步道的入口。

大坑5-1號步道&頭嵙山&大坑5號步道O型健行足跡:https://www.sports-tracker.com/workout/davidwang400/6799dc7c863ccd22506a313c

下面是大坑風景區境內14條登山步道導覽圖PDF檔案下載

大坑風景區以其多樣化的步道系統聞名,其中一些步道以陡峭和具有挑戰性而聞名。但也有幾條步道相對平緩,適合輕鬆健行。以下推薦幾條相對比較輕鬆的步道:

大坑6號步道: 這條步道全長約1.5公里,中途會經過走9號10號步道大部分人設定為終點的寧靜海觀音亭,稍作休息後6號步道還要繼續前進!比起前段比較清幽的路程,後段除了木造階梯外還有一些路段保留比較原始的山路,不同路段的步道鋪設完善程度落差比較大,走起來比較考驗腳力也要更加小心。

大坑7號步道: 這條步道全長大約1.3公里,多為坡度平緩的石頭步道,步道沿途大多被周圍蔥鬱的樹林環繞,被大自然包圍十分適合全家大小悠閒地散步健行。

大坑9號步道: 這條步道是所有大坑步道裡難易度最低、等級最新手的一條登山步道,全長約1.6公里,前段多為平緩的坡道,步道沿途有許多小吃攤或是販售飲料的小攤販,沒有準備登山補充糧食也不用擔心會肚子餓,後段有一些階梯但都算輕鬆的休閒等級。雖然在大坑步道群裡9號步道屬於較新建成的步道,台中市政府還在2020年啟動修整計畫,花了3個月時間整修步道後段的木棧道,新設了觀景平台供民眾登山時休息可以眺望景觀,把台中市區的景色盡收眼底。

大坑9-1號步道: 這條步道全長只有大約600公尺,是所有大坑步道裡最新建成也最短的一條。跟9號步道頭尾相接,不一樣的是9-1號步道全程大部分都是以階梯為主,上下山比起9號步道要考量一下腿力跟腳力。木棧道階梯經過整修後平整好走,來登山健行想要多運動的朋友可以選擇挑戰9-1號步道。

大坑10號步道: 跟9號、9-1號相同起點終點的10號步道,也是大坑步道群裡相對新建成的步道,全長大約有1.2公里。比起最簡單的9號步道,10號步道的階梯比較陡峭,每階階梯的高度也比9-1號步道的間隔大。最終跟9號步道一樣可通往與6號步道連接的寧靜海觀音亭,選擇9~10號步道的遊客大多會在這裡休息。

除了休閒等級的路線,大坑風景區內也有多條以挑戰性聞名的登山步道,以下列出幾條較具挑戰性的步道:

大坑2號步道: 人氣很高,難度也高的大坑2號步道,雖然是1~5號裡最短的一條,登山口進去前段還是騙人安心的平緩產業道路,等過了碎石梯後才是考驗的開始。最著名的圓形枕木好漢坡坡度又陡又長,需要良好的體力和耐力才能完成。

大坑3號步道: 這條步道全長約1.3公里,幾乎整條步道都是相思木圓木棧道,步道的陡坡也比前面介紹低難度的1號步道高上不少,前來挑戰可要先練練體能,比較適合平常就有運動習慣或登山經驗的人。

大坑4號步道: 這條步道被認為是大坑步道群中,景色最美,但也是最硬的一條。4號步道一開場就是坡度很大的直上圓木相思木棧道,途中當然也是許多上上下下的超高角度陡坡,很多時候需要雙手輔助攀爬,真的得要先練好體能跟腳力,也得準備好相當的裝備再來挑戰!

大坑5號、5-1號步道: 縱向的5號步道全長約1.4公里,連結起1號~4號步道。5號步道沿著山稜線走,雖然坡度上下起伏多比較具有挑戰性,但步道沿途寬闊的山景好看又好拍,可以一覽頭嵙山的美景,途中有不少涼亭可供休息。比起5號步道都是高底起伏大的圓形枕木步道,5-1步道有部分路段是一般的山坡石頭路面,連結5號步道不再往頭嵙山頂的話可以直接環形走一圈,或是往頭嵙山登頂再回來也是很多人會選擇的路線。

In previous years, when I returned to Taichung for Chinese New Year, I would always set aside a day to hike to the summit of Touke Mountain in Dakeng. This year was no exception. In the past, I would always ascend via Dakeng Trail No. 4, which is relatively short, about 3.5 kilometers round trip. As a result, the trail is steep from the very beginning of the ascent, making for a more strenuous hike.

It is also possible to reach the summit of Touke Mountain via Dakeng Trail No. 5-1. This trail allows for an O-shaped loop of approximately 4.8 kilometers. A circular route means not having to see the same scenery on the return trip, making the hike more interesting. Compared to Trail No. 4, this route is less steep and offers many pavilions for rest stops, making the hike less strenuous. Today, I completed the O-shaped loop at a leisurely pace, taking about two hours to complete the entire hike.

Touke Mountain is located on the border of Beitun District and Xinshe District in Taichung City, within the Dakeng Scenic Area. It can be accessed via Dakeng Trails No. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 5-1. With an elevation of 859 meters, it is listed as number 41 on Taiwan's list of minor peaks. It has a triangulation point number 3 issued by the Combined Logistics Command and a second-class triangulation point number 1120.

The starting point of Dakeng Trail No. 5-1 is located in Xietou Lane, Xinshe District, Taichung City. To get there, turn off Zhongxingling onto Xiezong Street (Mushroom Street), then follow Xietou Lane for a short distance until you reach the trailhead. You can find the trailhead in Xietou Lane by navigating to "Dakeng No. 5-1 Hiking Trail" on Google Maps. The open space next to the trailhead can accommodate about 10 cars. I arrived at noon today and luckily there was still one parking spot available.

Wooden boardwalks and primitive mountain trails are characteristic of Dakeng trails, and Trail No. 5-1 is no exception. The entire trail consists of alternating sections of wooden boardwalks, primitive mountain trails, and dirt paths. Compared to cement stair trails, these primitive trails are more enjoyable to hike!

After ascending from Trail No. 5-1, you will pass by Erke Mountain (without a base stone, but with a monument commemorating a mountaineering event), then pass Erke Pavilion, Chengzhong Pavilion, Chaxi Pavilion, and finally reach Black Pine Pavilion. From there, you will transfer to Dakeng Trail No. 5 to reach Touke Mountain, which is also where Dakeng Trail No. 4 intersects.

After a short rest at the summit of Touke Mountain, I returned to Black Pine Pavilion via the same route, and continued on Dakeng Trail No. 5. Along the way, I passed the intersections of Dakeng Trails No. 1, 2, and 3 (if you are using public transportation, you can choose to descend via these trails). However, I needed to return to the trailhead to retrieve my car, so I descended via the trailhead of Trail No. 5. After walking a short section of cement road, I returned to the entrance of Trail No. 5-1.

Dakeng Scenic Area is renowned for its diverse network of hiking trails, some of which are known for their steepness and challenging terrain. However, several trails are relatively gentle and suitable for leisurely hikes. Here are some recommended trails that are considered relatively easy:

Dakeng Trail No. 6: This trail is approximately 1.5 kilometers long. It passes through the Ningjinghai Guanyin Pavilion, which is the endpoint for most people hiking Trails No. 9 and 10. After a short rest, Trail No. 6 continues onward! Compared to the quieter section at the beginning, the latter part includes some sections of the original mountain path in addition to the wooden stairs. The difference in the degree of completion of the trail paving in different sections is relatively large. Hiking on this trail is a test of physical strength and requires extra caution.

Dakeng Trail No. 7: This trail is about 1.3 kilometers long and mostly consists of gently sloping stone paths. The trail is surrounded by lush trees, making it a great place for a leisurely walk with the whole family, surrounded by nature.

Dakeng Trail No. 9: This trail is the easiest and most beginner-friendly hiking trail among all Dakeng trails. It is approximately 1.6 kilometers long. The first section mostly consists of gentle slopes, and there are many food stalls or vendors selling drinks along the trail. There is no need to worry about going hungry if you haven't prepared hiking food. The latter section has some stairs, but they are all easy to navigate and are considered leisure-grade. Although Trail No. 9 is one of the newer trails in the Dakeng trail group, the Taichung City Government also launched a renovation project in 2020. After spending three months renovating the wooden plank road in the latter section of the trail, a new viewing platform was built for people to rest while hiking and enjoy the scenery, taking in the views of Taichung City.

Dakeng Trail No. 9-1: This trail is only about 600 meters long, making it the newest and shortest of all Dakeng trails. It connects to the beginning and end of Trail No. 9. The difference is that most of Trail No. 9-1 is made up of stairs. Going up and down the mountain requires considering leg strength and foot strength compared to Trail No. 9. The wooden plank stairs have been renovated to be flat and easy to walk on. Friends who come for hiking and want to do more exercise can choose to challenge Trail No. 9-1.

Dakeng Trail No. 10: Like Trails No. 9 and 9-1, Trail No. 10 has the same starting and ending point and is also a relatively new trail in the Dakeng trail group. It is about 1.2 kilometers long. Compared to the simplest Trail No. 9, the stairs on Trail No. 10 are steeper, and the height of each step is larger than the interval of Trail No. 9-1. Like Trail No. 9, it eventually leads to Ningjinghai Guanyin Pavilion, which is connected to Trail No. 6. Most tourists who choose Trails No. 9 and 10 will rest here.

In addition to leisure-grade routes, Dakeng Scenic Area also has many hiking trails known for their challenge. Here are a few more challenging trails:

Dakeng Trail No. 2: Trail No. 2 is very popular and difficult. Although it is the shortest of Trails No. 1 to 5, the first section of the entrance is still a gentle industrial road that makes people feel at ease. The test begins after passing the gravel ladder. The most famous circular log slope is steep and long, requiring good physical strength and endurance to complete.

Dakeng Trail No. 3: This trail is about 1.3 kilometers long, and almost the entire trail is a Formosa acacia round wood plank road. The steep slope of the trail is also much higher than the low-difficulty Trail No. 1 introduced earlier. Those who come to challenge must first practice their physical fitness. It is more suitable for people who usually have exercise habits or hiking experience.

Dakeng Trail No. 4: This trail is considered the most beautiful but also the most difficult trail in the Dakeng trail group. Trail No. 4 starts with a very steep straight up round wood Formosa acacia plank road. Of course, there are many high-angle steep slopes that go up and down. In many cases, you need to use your hands for assistance in climbing. You really need to practice your physical fitness and leg strength, and you must prepare adequate equipment before challenging it!

Dakeng Trail No. 5 and 5-1: The vertical Trail No. 5 is about 1.4 kilometers long and connects Trails No. 1 to 4. Trail No. 5 runs along the mountain ridge. Although the slope fluctuates greatly and is more challenging, the wide mountain scenery along the trail is beautiful and easy to photograph. You can have a panoramic view of the beauty of Touke Mountain, with many pavilions along the way for rest. Compared to Trail No. 5, which is a round log trail with large ups and downs, Trail No. 5-1 has some sections that are ordinary mountain slope stone roads. Connecting Trail No. 5, you can directly walk a circle without going to the top of Touke Mountain. Or, it is a route that many people choose to climb to the top of Touke Mountain and then come back.




大坑5-1號步道沿途有許多以青蛙為主題的步道導覽設計




氛圍不錯的圓木步道


今天台中的天氣相當不錯




經過一處空地,有許多椅子可供休憩


蛇出來了~




眺望遠處的山脈



大坑5-1號步道沿途有相當多介紹植物的解說牌



途中經過二嵙山,山頂有設置一座登山活動紀念碑



大坑5-1號步道沿途有許多小涼亭,累了就可以休息,相當方便









這種由木頭建構而成的階梯,是大坑登山步道的特色之一



步道途中有一顆相當壯觀的五葉松





大坑5號步道的景色


展望相當不錯


步道途中也有這樣的路段


在這附近碰見很多隻猴哥




途中經過大坑3號步道的岔路口(續行大坑5號步道)






抵達頭嵙山山頂




今天大年初一,有不少民眾上山登高望遠


小休息後,原路下山





由大坑5號步道下山









下山抵達大坑5號步道的登山口,接著走一小段水泥路回到5-1號步道入口停車處


途中欣賞梅花







也有山櫻花







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