Sep 2024 晚夏的黑部源流4泊5日山旅 PART ①【溪流登攀&溫泉三昧】赤木沢~五郎沢~祖父沢遡行&雲ノ平~高天原~裏銀座縱走(旅途的開始)

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今年晚夏的山旅,我前往了日本北阿爾卑斯山脈黑部源流域進行為期五天四夜的溪流登攀+登山縱走行程。黑部川源流一帶的山域,雖然過去幾年已造訪過多次,不過這回是第一次在日本進行溪流登攀(日本叫「 沢登り 」),而且是在我特愛的黑部川流域,讓我對黑部源流域有了更進一步的認識。 此行也順路造訪了五年前就計畫要去,但是因爲颱風而沒能去成的「 雲ノ平 」,以及有「 日本第一遠的溫泉 」之稱的秘湯「 高天原溫泉 」泡湯。然後還走了去年因為天氣惡劣而沒能走的「 裏銀座縱走路線 」下山,完成這趟縱橫黑部源流域,總距離50幾公里的溪流登攀和登山旅行。 黑部川 (日語:黒部川/くろべがわ)是日本富山縣東部的一級河川,為黑部川水系的本流,它被列為富山縣的七大河流之一,其他六條河流分別是片貝川、早月川、常願寺川、神通川、莊川和小矢部川。 黑部川 大部分蜿蜒於深山內,形成十分陡峭的黑部峽谷,如果想親身感受黑部峽谷的壯闊,走一趟 下ノ廊下 和 水平步道 ,絕對是畢生難忘的體驗。 下圖為黑部川水系流域的示意圖,從海拔2924米的 鷲羽岳 降下的的最初的一滴水,流經 奧ノ廊下 、 上ノ廊下 、 下ノ廊下 ,並匯聚了黑部山區眾多支流的溪水後,向北奔流而下,然後流入富山灣,最後進入日本海。 下圖是這趟山旅所進行的溪流登攀(沢登り)的區域,包括 赤木沢 、 五郎沢 、 祖父沢 等黑部川支流,主要位於黑部川的源頭,尤其是赤木沢,更有著「 日本第一美溪 」之稱號。 黑部源流…這幾個字對登山者來說有著特殊的魔力。人跡罕至的秘境,峽谷綿延的 上ノ廊下 ,激流沖刷岩石的 下ノ廊下 ,源頭的雲ノ平瑞士庭園等。在這黑部源流的一隅,一條溫柔的小溪緩緩流入。赤木沢與黑部川本流交匯處的絕美景色,展現了大自然鬼斧神工的美麗,在陽光照耀下的溪流和深潭,呈現出豐富的色彩變化,其美景宛如天國一般。 下圖是我這趟五天四夜的山旅,所行經過的整個路線(使用 YAMAP 紀錄),從富山縣的 折立登山口 入山,溯行黑部源流域的多個溪流(黑部川上游的支流),並順訪 雲ノ平 和 高天原溫泉 後,再走 裏銀座縱走路 ,由高瀨湖下山,總距離約53.6公里(不過在 Sports Tracker 上面的紀錄卻是63.3公里,不知道哪個才是正確的)。 這趟山旅的途中,依序住宿 藥師沢小屋 、 黑部五郎小屋 、 雲ノ平山莊 、 水晶小屋 ,這些都是以前沒有住過...

Planning on taking the Yari-Hotaka traverse and Tateyama/Tsurugi-dake Circuit Trek in the Northern Japan Alps


The Japan Alps consist of three volcanic ridges that run from north to south through the central and widest part of Honshu. The home of numerous hiking areas and ski resorts, and centered around Nagano, the Japan Alps are named after the famous European mountain range because they both feature rugged glacier-carved slopes and numerous peaks over 3,000 meter.

With the exception of Mt. Fuji, which is further east, the highest mountains in Japan are located in the Japan Alps. Numerous streams running through the plateaus and between the mountains have carved out lovely gorges and ravines. Thick-wooded forests occupy the lower slopes, and of alpine flora and rugged rocky walls occupy the higher slopes.

The Hida Mountains, or Northern Alps, is a Japanese mountain range which stretches through Nagano, Toyama and Gifu prefectures. The Northern Japanese Alps is a major mountain chain slicing through the heart of Japan north to south. A number of Japan's most awesome peaks lie in this popular mountainous region, which is loved by climbers. Several 3,000-meter-high rocky peaks rise from the Hotaka Mountains as if taking turns piercing the sky. The two most popular climbing mountains, Mt. Yari and Mt. Hotaka are difficult to climb. In the past 30 years over 500 climbers have died trying to reach their summits. Yari means "spear" in Japanese and the dangerous hike to top of this mountain takes three days. The ascent of Hotaka, the third highest mountain in Japan, isn't as difficult. At the top you can often see eagles riding the thermals. Still people have died climbing it. The route from the Hotaka Mountains to Mt. Yari is revered as one of the most difficult traverse routes in Japan. 


The Kita Alps are well-travelled in the summer months and series of comfortable mountain huts, similar to those in the Alps, are well-spaced, staffed, and equiped to accomodate the throngs of Japanese hikers during the peak summer months. Mt. Oku-Hotaka (3,190 meters) , the highest of the the group, sits at the south end of a knife-ridge which connects to the famous Yarigatake (3,180 meters) mountain, aprx. 6 miles to the north. Other prominent peaks in the Hotaka massive are: Mae-Hotaka (3,090 meters), Nishi-Hotaka (2,908 meters) Kita-Hotaka (3,106 meters), and Karasawa Dake (3,110 meters). 

The Japan Alps are truly remarkable and beautiful and a developed infrastructure allows easy access. At the base of the Hotaka massive, sits the resort town of Kamikochi in the Azusa River valley. The peaks are the centerpiece of the Chubu Sangaku National Park. Alpinists relish the challenge of ascending the mountains from the western slope, which is a sheer, massive rock face. Over the years, the steep cliffs have claimed the lives of many mountaineers.

At a height of 3,180 meters, Mt. Yari (Yarigatake) has a sharply pointed summit that is shaped like a pyramid and is located in the northernmost of the group of the rocky peaks. Mt. Yari is Japan's fifth-highest peak, and called“the Japanese Matterhorn”because of its shape. Mt. Yari is so popular that it is a summit that nearly everyone aspires to climb at least once. During the summer climbing season, alpinists form a long queue waiting for their turn to summit Mt. Yari. Climbing Mt. Yari and Mt. Hotaka is very popular among Japanese and foreign climbers and was one of my dreams.


Tateyama-Kurobe Alpine Route is 90 kilometer route that is broken into nine sections and includes rides on cable railways, a highland bus, a cable car, and a trolley bus. It starts in Toyama and finished in Shinano-omachi (It's also possible to do trip in the reverse direction), and stops at Kurobe Dam. The entire journey costs about ¥11,000.

Tateyama Mountain is considers one of Japan's three holiest mountains along with Mt. Fuji and Mt. Haku and is comprised of three peaks: Oyama, Onanjiyama, and Fujinooritate. The highest is 9,892 feet. Climbing the mountain has traditionally been regarded as means of purifying the soul. For many years it was off limits to women and was climbed by 15-year-old boys to prove their manhood. 

Among the mountains of the Japanese Alps, Tsurugi-dake is maybe the most famous among experienced hikers. The reason for this is the rather difficult and exposed ascent that is possible for the average hiker only with the help of many chains, nails etc. The normal approach to Tsurugi-dake is to take the train, cable car and bus route from Toyama to Murodo. From there it is a few hours hike to the base of Tsurugi-dake. On the way, you pass the sulfuric springs that feed onsen in many of the huts in the area.

Tsurugi-dake is located in the eastern area of Toyama Prefecture, Japan. It is one of the tallest peak in the Hida Mountains at 2,999M. Based on peakery data, it ranks as the 1st highest mountain in Toyama and the 17th highest mountain in Japan. It is one of the 100 Famous Japanese Mountains, and is called "the most dangerous mountain" climbable. Before attempting this mountain make sure you have some experience and take appropriate safety equipment. Having said that the trail up to the summit is steep but good fun and you get a real sense of accomplishment when you make it to the top.

If you have only time for one area of the outdoors to explore during your stay in this country, you can’t go wrong by choosing one of the many choices the Northern Alps has to offer. I'm planning on taking the Yari-Hotaka traverse and Tateyama/Tsurugi-dake Circuit Trek in the Kita Alps this summer, it's gonna be exciting!!.


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