Oct 21~24, 2023【晚秋の贅沢な山旅 PART②】黒部峽谷♡下之廊下|日本北阿爾卑斯山秘境健行+野營+秘湯溫泉 DAY 1(黒部水壩〜下之廊下〜阿曾原溫泉)

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今天是這趟四天三夜秋季山旅的第二天,昨天在信濃大町悠閒度過了半天,今天終於要進入黑部峽谷山區了。原本是預計早上6點15分,要從信濃大町車站前,乘坐第一班巴士前往 扇沢 ,但是旅館客房太溫暖,不小心睡過頭,等到自然醒時,看了手機已經早上6點了。 這時就算再怎麼快速收拾背包衝到車站也趕不上6點15分的巴士了。雖然還有下一班巴士可以搭,但是今天的路程有點遠,得走上20公里,加上紅葉季節,如果太晚抵達露營場,可能會找不到位置紮營,所以我想還是儘早出發比較好。幸好車站前有計程車可以利用,只是必須多花幾千塊日幣消災就是了。 在觀光季節,最早一班由 扇沢 開往 黒部ダム ( 黑部水壩 )的巴士是早上7點30分發車,所以只要需抓個50分鐘的乘車跟買票時間,大概早上6點40分左右,從大町車站前搭上計程車就沒問題了。 洗漱完畢,整理好背包後,將房間鑰匙放回旅館櫃檯的籃子裡,然後走路到車站前面,叫一輛計程車前往 扇沢 (車資大約8000日幣上下)。走在路上可以看見遠處三千公尺級的高山,都已經覆上了新雪,預告著今年的雪季即將到來。 早上7點左右抵達 扇沢 ,買了一張前往 黑部水壩 的單程電氣巴士車票(1,800日幣),然後將登山計畫書投遞進箱子裡,走上二樓排隊等待搭車。果然不愧是紅葉季節,車站二樓裡面,整整四排的排隊區,已經排滿了登山客和觀光客。 扇沢 其實就是 立山黑部阿爾卑斯路線 的長野側起點,是觀光客很喜歡造訪的地方,只是一般觀光客不會曉得,站在黑部水壩頂部欣賞放水時,在那 日本規模第一 的水壩後方之溪谷深處,竟然隱藏著一條少為人知的登山步道。 相關參考連結 下ノ廊下を含む活動日記一覧(YAMAP) 登山ルート情報 - 阿曽原温泉小屋 立山黒部アルペンルート|公式サイト アルピコ交通|路線バス 扇沢線 くろよん(黒部ダム)ーその手に未来をー|関西電力 2021年の番組~最後の秘境・黒部源流紀行【小椋久美子が黒部川の“最初の一滴”を目指す旅】 【下の廊下】黒部峡谷の断崖絶壁を命懸けで歩く(前編) 【下の廊下】落ちたら終わりの絶景登山道(後編) 【テント泊登山】断崖絶壁30kmの道、黒部峡谷の歴史を歩く|旧日電歩道-下ノ廊下-水平歩道 【全篇】『黒部峡谷探検』1927年|「フィルムは記録する」より ‘Film IS a Document: NFAJ Historic Film Porta...

Planning on taking the Yari-Hotaka traverse and Tateyama/Tsurugi-dake Circuit Trek in the Northern Japan Alps


The Japan Alps consist of three volcanic ridges that run from north to south through the central and widest part of Honshu. The home of numerous hiking areas and ski resorts, and centered around Nagano, the Japan Alps are named after the famous European mountain range because they both feature rugged glacier-carved slopes and numerous peaks over 3,000 meter.

With the exception of Mt. Fuji, which is further east, the highest mountains in Japan are located in the Japan Alps. Numerous streams running through the plateaus and between the mountains have carved out lovely gorges and ravines. Thick-wooded forests occupy the lower slopes, and of alpine flora and rugged rocky walls occupy the higher slopes.

The Hida Mountains, or Northern Alps, is a Japanese mountain range which stretches through Nagano, Toyama and Gifu prefectures. The Northern Japanese Alps is a major mountain chain slicing through the heart of Japan north to south. A number of Japan's most awesome peaks lie in this popular mountainous region, which is loved by climbers. Several 3,000-meter-high rocky peaks rise from the Hotaka Mountains as if taking turns piercing the sky. The two most popular climbing mountains, Mt. Yari and Mt. Hotaka are difficult to climb. In the past 30 years over 500 climbers have died trying to reach their summits. Yari means "spear" in Japanese and the dangerous hike to top of this mountain takes three days. The ascent of Hotaka, the third highest mountain in Japan, isn't as difficult. At the top you can often see eagles riding the thermals. Still people have died climbing it. The route from the Hotaka Mountains to Mt. Yari is revered as one of the most difficult traverse routes in Japan. 


The Kita Alps are well-travelled in the summer months and series of comfortable mountain huts, similar to those in the Alps, are well-spaced, staffed, and equiped to accomodate the throngs of Japanese hikers during the peak summer months. Mt. Oku-Hotaka (3,190 meters) , the highest of the the group, sits at the south end of a knife-ridge which connects to the famous Yarigatake (3,180 meters) mountain, aprx. 6 miles to the north. Other prominent peaks in the Hotaka massive are: Mae-Hotaka (3,090 meters), Nishi-Hotaka (2,908 meters) Kita-Hotaka (3,106 meters), and Karasawa Dake (3,110 meters). 

The Japan Alps are truly remarkable and beautiful and a developed infrastructure allows easy access. At the base of the Hotaka massive, sits the resort town of Kamikochi in the Azusa River valley. The peaks are the centerpiece of the Chubu Sangaku National Park. Alpinists relish the challenge of ascending the mountains from the western slope, which is a sheer, massive rock face. Over the years, the steep cliffs have claimed the lives of many mountaineers.

At a height of 3,180 meters, Mt. Yari (Yarigatake) has a sharply pointed summit that is shaped like a pyramid and is located in the northernmost of the group of the rocky peaks. Mt. Yari is Japan's fifth-highest peak, and called“the Japanese Matterhorn”because of its shape. Mt. Yari is so popular that it is a summit that nearly everyone aspires to climb at least once. During the summer climbing season, alpinists form a long queue waiting for their turn to summit Mt. Yari. Climbing Mt. Yari and Mt. Hotaka is very popular among Japanese and foreign climbers and was one of my dreams.


Tateyama-Kurobe Alpine Route is 90 kilometer route that is broken into nine sections and includes rides on cable railways, a highland bus, a cable car, and a trolley bus. It starts in Toyama and finished in Shinano-omachi (It's also possible to do trip in the reverse direction), and stops at Kurobe Dam. The entire journey costs about ¥11,000.

Tateyama Mountain is considers one of Japan's three holiest mountains along with Mt. Fuji and Mt. Haku and is comprised of three peaks: Oyama, Onanjiyama, and Fujinooritate. The highest is 9,892 feet. Climbing the mountain has traditionally been regarded as means of purifying the soul. For many years it was off limits to women and was climbed by 15-year-old boys to prove their manhood. 

Among the mountains of the Japanese Alps, Tsurugi-dake is maybe the most famous among experienced hikers. The reason for this is the rather difficult and exposed ascent that is possible for the average hiker only with the help of many chains, nails etc. The normal approach to Tsurugi-dake is to take the train, cable car and bus route from Toyama to Murodo. From there it is a few hours hike to the base of Tsurugi-dake. On the way, you pass the sulfuric springs that feed onsen in many of the huts in the area.

Tsurugi-dake is located in the eastern area of Toyama Prefecture, Japan. It is one of the tallest peak in the Hida Mountains at 2,999M. Based on peakery data, it ranks as the 1st highest mountain in Toyama and the 17th highest mountain in Japan. It is one of the 100 Famous Japanese Mountains, and is called "the most dangerous mountain" climbable. Before attempting this mountain make sure you have some experience and take appropriate safety equipment. Having said that the trail up to the summit is steep but good fun and you get a real sense of accomplishment when you make it to the top.

If you have only time for one area of the outdoors to explore during your stay in this country, you can’t go wrong by choosing one of the many choices the Northern Alps has to offer. I'm planning on taking the Yari-Hotaka traverse and Tateyama/Tsurugi-dake Circuit Trek in the Kita Alps this summer, it's gonna be exciting!!.


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