Jan 2025【日本東北】溫泉三昧之旅⑤ 在大雪飄落的雪國,追尋秘湯之宿與極上美食(福島~被時光遺忘下的江戶原風景,日本三大茅葺聚落大內宿)

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清晨的陽光穿過窗櫺,灑落在榻榻米上,為房間增添了一抹溫暖的光輝。窗外,白雪皚皚的山脈在晴朗的天空下閃閃發光,預示著美好的一天。我起身走到窗邊,深深吸了一口清新的冬日空氣,心中充滿了對即將到來的一天以及仙峽閣旅館美味早餐的期待。 旅館的餐廳瀰漫著舒適的氛圍。我坐在窗邊的座位上,渴望一邊欣賞迷人的雪景,一邊享用我的早餐。一個擺盤精美的早餐托盤送到了面前,上面擺滿了各種誘人的菜餚。 我的目光首先被一碗晶瑩剔透的白米飯吸引,它的香氣瀰漫在空氣中。旁邊是一份色彩繽紛的沙拉,新鮮的蔬菜搭配玉米粒,令人食慾大增。烤鮭魚散發著陣陣香味,魚皮烤得酥脆可口。溫泉蛋浸泡在清淡的高湯中,看起來既美味又暖胃。 其他幾道小菜也讓這份早餐更加豐富:燉菠菜、裙帶菜炒蒟蒻、山藥泥佐醬油,以及醃梅子和醃黃瓜。最後,一小杯香甜的芒果優格為這頓早餐畫上了完美的句點。 這份早餐不僅美味,而且營養均衡,為我在這個冬季仙境中探索一天提供了滿滿的能量。我細細品味著每一道菜餚,感受著旅館的用心和款待,心中充滿了感激之情,感謝這美好的一天有如此美好的開始。 飯後早晨,我踏出旅館的暖簾,迎接我的是一片銀白色的世界。蘆之牧溫泉街靜靜地沉睡在會津深山的懷抱中,厚厚的積雪覆蓋著屋頂、街道和樹木,彷彿時間也凍結在這一刻。 呼出的氣息在冰冷的空氣中凝結成白霧,我沿著溫泉街漫步,腳步聲在寂靜的早晨顯得格外清晰。偶爾,可以聽見屋簷上融雪滴落的聲音,或是遠處傳來的幾聲鳥鳴,更增添了這份寧靜的氛圍。 阿賀川靜靜地流淌在山谷間,河面上覆蓋著薄薄的冰層,在陽光的照射下閃閃發光。河岸邊的樹木披上了雪白的冬衣,枝椏交錯,形成一道道優美的弧線。溫泉旅館的屋頂冒著裊裊炊煙,為這寒冷的冬日增添了一絲溫暖。 漫步在空無一人的溫泉街上,我彷彿置身於一個與世隔絕的世外桃源。這份寂靜,這份純淨,洗滌了我的心靈,讓我感受到久違的平靜與祥和。 凛冬將群山染成了素雅的銀白,積雪在山坡上鋪陳開來,厚薄錯落,像是誰不經意間揮灑的筆墨,濃淡相宜。裸露的枝枒,在寒風中輕輕搖曳,仿佛在低聲訴說著冬日的故事。遠處的山巒,在霧氣的籠罩下,若隱若現,宛如仙境一般,讓人心生嚮往。 蘆之牧溫泉的冬日,沒有喧囂,沒有繁華,只有那份獨特的靜謐與安詳,像一首悠揚的樂曲,在山谷間輕輕回蕩,令人陶醉其中,忘卻了塵世的煩惱。 這山,這雪,這寧靜的溫泉小鎮,這氤氳的霧氣,交織成一幅絕美的冬日畫卷,...

Planning on taking the Yari-Hotaka traverse and Tateyama/Tsurugi-dake Circuit Trek in the Northern Japan Alps


The Japan Alps consist of three volcanic ridges that run from north to south through the central and widest part of Honshu. The home of numerous hiking areas and ski resorts, and centered around Nagano, the Japan Alps are named after the famous European mountain range because they both feature rugged glacier-carved slopes and numerous peaks over 3,000 meter.

With the exception of Mt. Fuji, which is further east, the highest mountains in Japan are located in the Japan Alps. Numerous streams running through the plateaus and between the mountains have carved out lovely gorges and ravines. Thick-wooded forests occupy the lower slopes, and of alpine flora and rugged rocky walls occupy the higher slopes.

The Hida Mountains, or Northern Alps, is a Japanese mountain range which stretches through Nagano, Toyama and Gifu prefectures. The Northern Japanese Alps is a major mountain chain slicing through the heart of Japan north to south. A number of Japan's most awesome peaks lie in this popular mountainous region, which is loved by climbers. Several 3,000-meter-high rocky peaks rise from the Hotaka Mountains as if taking turns piercing the sky. The two most popular climbing mountains, Mt. Yari and Mt. Hotaka are difficult to climb. In the past 30 years over 500 climbers have died trying to reach their summits. Yari means "spear" in Japanese and the dangerous hike to top of this mountain takes three days. The ascent of Hotaka, the third highest mountain in Japan, isn't as difficult. At the top you can often see eagles riding the thermals. Still people have died climbing it. The route from the Hotaka Mountains to Mt. Yari is revered as one of the most difficult traverse routes in Japan. 


The Kita Alps are well-travelled in the summer months and series of comfortable mountain huts, similar to those in the Alps, are well-spaced, staffed, and equiped to accomodate the throngs of Japanese hikers during the peak summer months. Mt. Oku-Hotaka (3,190 meters) , the highest of the the group, sits at the south end of a knife-ridge which connects to the famous Yarigatake (3,180 meters) mountain, aprx. 6 miles to the north. Other prominent peaks in the Hotaka massive are: Mae-Hotaka (3,090 meters), Nishi-Hotaka (2,908 meters) Kita-Hotaka (3,106 meters), and Karasawa Dake (3,110 meters). 

The Japan Alps are truly remarkable and beautiful and a developed infrastructure allows easy access. At the base of the Hotaka massive, sits the resort town of Kamikochi in the Azusa River valley. The peaks are the centerpiece of the Chubu Sangaku National Park. Alpinists relish the challenge of ascending the mountains from the western slope, which is a sheer, massive rock face. Over the years, the steep cliffs have claimed the lives of many mountaineers.

At a height of 3,180 meters, Mt. Yari (Yarigatake) has a sharply pointed summit that is shaped like a pyramid and is located in the northernmost of the group of the rocky peaks. Mt. Yari is Japan's fifth-highest peak, and called“the Japanese Matterhorn”because of its shape. Mt. Yari is so popular that it is a summit that nearly everyone aspires to climb at least once. During the summer climbing season, alpinists form a long queue waiting for their turn to summit Mt. Yari. Climbing Mt. Yari and Mt. Hotaka is very popular among Japanese and foreign climbers and was one of my dreams.


Tateyama-Kurobe Alpine Route is 90 kilometer route that is broken into nine sections and includes rides on cable railways, a highland bus, a cable car, and a trolley bus. It starts in Toyama and finished in Shinano-omachi (It's also possible to do trip in the reverse direction), and stops at Kurobe Dam. The entire journey costs about ¥11,000.

Tateyama Mountain is considers one of Japan's three holiest mountains along with Mt. Fuji and Mt. Haku and is comprised of three peaks: Oyama, Onanjiyama, and Fujinooritate. The highest is 9,892 feet. Climbing the mountain has traditionally been regarded as means of purifying the soul. For many years it was off limits to women and was climbed by 15-year-old boys to prove their manhood. 

Among the mountains of the Japanese Alps, Tsurugi-dake is maybe the most famous among experienced hikers. The reason for this is the rather difficult and exposed ascent that is possible for the average hiker only with the help of many chains, nails etc. The normal approach to Tsurugi-dake is to take the train, cable car and bus route from Toyama to Murodo. From there it is a few hours hike to the base of Tsurugi-dake. On the way, you pass the sulfuric springs that feed onsen in many of the huts in the area.

Tsurugi-dake is located in the eastern area of Toyama Prefecture, Japan. It is one of the tallest peak in the Hida Mountains at 2,999M. Based on peakery data, it ranks as the 1st highest mountain in Toyama and the 17th highest mountain in Japan. It is one of the 100 Famous Japanese Mountains, and is called "the most dangerous mountain" climbable. Before attempting this mountain make sure you have some experience and take appropriate safety equipment. Having said that the trail up to the summit is steep but good fun and you get a real sense of accomplishment when you make it to the top.

If you have only time for one area of the outdoors to explore during your stay in this country, you can’t go wrong by choosing one of the many choices the Northern Alps has to offer. I'm planning on taking the Yari-Hotaka traverse and Tateyama/Tsurugi-dake Circuit Trek in the Kita Alps this summer, it's gonna be exciting!!.


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